本書(shū)分為三個(gè)模塊。模塊一: “動(dòng)手”即是“設(shè)計(jì)”的創(chuàng)作理念。從了解人與衣的結(jié)構(gòu)關(guān)系到立裁的基礎(chǔ)技法。模塊二: 合體類的設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)新與款式拓展訓(xùn)練。模塊三: 寬松類造型的設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)新與款式拓展訓(xùn)練。
目 錄
上篇 創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)與表達(dá)
模塊一“動(dòng)手”即是“設(shè)計(jì)”的創(chuàng)作理念.........................................................................................1
認(rèn)識(shí)一 以人為主體的空間設(shè)計(jì)——確立人與衣的結(jié)構(gòu)關(guān)系.....................................................2
認(rèn)識(shí)二 立裁的基礎(chǔ)技法.......................................................................................................................4
認(rèn)識(shí)三 創(chuàng)意立裁初體驗(yàn)——基本造型手法......................................................................................7
認(rèn)識(shí)四 強(qiáng)化創(chuàng)意的造型焦點(diǎn)——設(shè)計(jì)靈感的提煉與表達(dá)............................................................14
認(rèn)識(shí)五 感性而嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)?shù)牧⒉眠^(guò)程——養(yǎng)成良好的設(shè)計(jì)習(xí)慣............................................................20
模塊二合體類造型的立裁設(shè)計(jì)與款式拓展訓(xùn)練............................................................................27
訓(xùn)練一 褶省設(shè)計(jì)..................................................................................................................................28
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................28
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................28
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................31
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................34
五、總結(jié)與分析...........................................................................................................................42
訓(xùn)練二 分割設(shè)計(jì)..................................................................................................................................45
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................45
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................46
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................47
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................51
五、總結(jié)與分析.................................................................................................................................59
訓(xùn)練三 不對(duì)稱結(jié)構(gòu)與局部抽褶設(shè)計(jì).................................................................................................62
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................62
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................64
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................64
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................69
五、總結(jié)與分析.................................................................................................................................72
訓(xùn)練四 線的變化..................................................................................................................................74
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................74
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................74
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................76
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................81
五、總結(jié)與分析.................................................................................................................................92
訓(xùn)練五 局部創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)..........................................................................................................................94
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................94
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................96
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................96
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................100
五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................114
訓(xùn)練六 局部焦點(diǎn)造型.......................................................................................................................117
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................117
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................118
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................119
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................125
五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................136
訓(xùn)練七 折疊聚焦................................................................................................................................138
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................138
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................138
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................140
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................146
五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................152
模塊三寬松類造型的立裁設(shè)計(jì)與款式拓展訓(xùn)練..........................................................................155
訓(xùn)練一幾何構(gòu)成................................................................................................................................156
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................156
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................156
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................158
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................162
五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................169
訓(xùn)練二局部斜裁................................................................................................................................172
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................172
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................174
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................174
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................178
五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................181
訓(xùn)練三直線裁剪一片成型...............................................................................................................183
一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................183
二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................183
三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................183
四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................189
五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................200
參考文獻(xiàn)................................................................................................................................................202
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